Peanut Butter Caramel Cookies

pb cookieThis peanut butter caramel cookie was born out of a hunger-fueled, pre-Christmas brainstorming session. The peanut butter cookie dough is based on that of the famed New York bakery Magnolia Bakery, with the add-ins omitted to make room for the caramel swirl. If you’re not down to make your own caramel sauce (which you should, because it takes under 10 minutes and will make you feel like you have your culinary shit together), a few store-bought caramels chopped up and mixed into the dough will suffice.

cookie ingredients

Peanut Butter Caramel Cookie Recipe

Caramel sauce recipe from Smitten Kitchen. Cookie recipe adapted from Magnolia Bakery, NYC.

Ingredients

Caramel:

  • 1/4 cup granulated sugar
  • 2 Tablespoons unsalted butter
  • 1.5 Tablespoons heavy cream
  • A heavy pinch of sea salt

Cookies:

  • 1 1/4 cup AP flour*
  • 3/4 tsp baking soda
  • 1/2 tsp baking powder
  • 1/4 tsp salt
  • 1/2 cup butter, softened
  • 1 cup peanut butter, room temp**
  • 3/4 cup sugar
  • 1/2 cup brown sugar
  • 1 large egg
  • 1 Tbsp heavy cream
  • 1 tsp vanilla
  • Extra granulated sugar for rolling

caramel dough
Instructions

Making the Caramel

  1. Heat a clean, dry saucepan over medium-high heat and add granulated sugar. Stir frequently with a spatula — the sugar will slowly melt.
  2. When the sugar has entirely liquefied and turned golden brown, take it off heat and immediately add the butter. It’s important not to wait too long, as the sugar will keep cooking and can go from golden-delicious to brown-burnt very quickly. Whisk until butter is incorporated.
  3. Put back on (low) heat and add the cream and sea salt — whisk until smooth and homogeneous, then take off heat and let cool. It will stiffen up slightly as it cools, but you don’t want it to be boiling hot when you add it to the cookie dough, so this is fine. If it gets too hard to work with, you can warm it gently before adding it to the cookie dough.

Making the Cookies

  1. Preheat oven to 350F. In a small mixing bowl combine flour, baking powder and soda, and salt.
  2. In a large mixing bowl, blend together butter and peanut butter, then add sugars and blend until fluffy.
  3. Add egg, vanilla extract and cream. Blend until combined.
  4. Add dry ingredients and mix until just incorporated — I like to switch to a wooden spoon or sturdy spatula for this part.
  5. Drizzle caramel sauce into dough – you don’t have to use all of it, I usually use about 2/3 of a batch and reserve the rest.
  6. Fold the caramel into the dough, but don’t overmix- you should have nice thick ribbons of caramel running through the dough.
  7. You can stick the dough in the fridge for a few minutes here if you want to make it a little easier to scoop, but it isn’t entirely necessary.
  8. Scoop dough out in VERY heaped tablespoons (about 2 Tbsp in volume) and roll into a ball, then roll in a small bowl of granulated sugar. Move sugared dough balls to an ungreased cookie sheets. Place them at least 2 inches apart- they tend to spread a good amount. If you like, lightly press criss-crossed marks into top of cookie dough with fork tines.
  9. Bake for 10-12 minutes until set– don’t wait until the edges are brown, but the cookies shouldn’t look doughy in the center.
  10. Let cool for a few minutes, then transfer to a rack to continue cooling.

pb dough balls* One of my other favorite cookie recipes uses a blend of cake flour and bread flour for a chewy yet tender consistency that was completely mind-blowing the first time I tried it. I haven’t tried that yet with these peanut butter caramel cookies, but I do love the idea of it.

**I used a jar of cheap chunky peanut butter from Trader Joe’s. Since the nuances of the peanut butter get a little lost in the sugariness of these cookies, there’s no reason to spend a whole lot of money on peanut butter. Skippy or Jif would do well too!

 

Year of Bread: Butter-loaded Brioche

large briocheFor a while there it felt like brioche was one of those culinary buzzwords that you couldn’t get away from. Brioche burger buns, brioche French Toast, brioche croutons- while none of them are bad ideas (unless you consult your cardiologist), sometimes it felt like restaurants with heavy-handed inclusion of brioche on the menu might be covering up a lack of creativity or desire to cater to the “more decadence is better” crowd. Nevertheless, brioche is a good shorthand for “we’re not fucking around with health food around here.”

brioche dough - mixing

Reinhart includes 3 basic brioche formulas– Rich Man’s Brioche, Middle-Class Brioche, and Poor Man’s Brioche. Did you know that Marie Antoinette’s famous (and probably wrongly-attributed) reaction to the plight of the French poor was actually “Let them eat brioche”?  Quite befitting of a French queen’s table, the Rich Man’s brioche contains an unreal 70% butter to flour ratio, which sounds practically like a pie crust baked into a loaf.

Bread for the Bourgeois

I went with the Middle-Class recipe, which requires a relatively measly 50% butter. As if a full stick of butter wasn’t enough enrichment, I also added 3 eggs and a bit of milk (whole, of course). Because it’s so fat-laden, this dough didn’t require as much intensive kneading as leaner breads (yay!). It was, however, incredibly fickle in the face of any amount of heat.

16299139049_72eaef63cd_kThe consistency was almost to the point of being a really thick pancake batter rather than a dough. As such, the dough requires a deep chilling before shaping. I spread it out on my trusty SilPat and stuck it in the fridge for about 4 hours before taking it out for a quick shaping into boules. It was nearly impossible to shape well, so I just rolled it into neat balls and hoped that was sufficient shaping. And here’s where I messed up — I read the instructions incorrectly and stuck the dough BACK in the fridge for a few hours to chill it up again, where I should have left it out to proof and go right into the oven. Gah.

Mistakes are Fixable!

Luckily, when I realized this 2 hours later, I pulled my dough out to proof for 2 hours. It didn’t rise as vigorously as a French loaf would have, but it still expanded a bit. When it hit the hot oven, though, my little boules grew substantially. Yay! Success after all.

16483671411_0ce234cd91_zAs enticing as hot-out-of-the-oven brioche sounds, I found that the petites tasted better the next morning — a little less of a face-punching butter taste and more of a rich, balanced bread taste. You don’t really need to put anything on this bread, especially not butter– although something like jam or apple butter would probably cut the richness of the bread nicely.

Flavor Intensifies: What I’d Add Next Time

brioche-above

I’d love to try this another time with something mixed into the dough. Maybe a brown butter brioche for extra nuttiness, or a bit of orange extract in the butter to give it a bit more complexity? Chocolate swirl, caramel, or bacon bits would also be pretty awesome, but wouldn’t do anything to help the hearty-healthiness of brioche. But if you’re eating brioche, maybe you should accept the fact that your diet has been déraillé.

Next time I’ll be making a cousin of brioche, the Casatiello, which is like brioche but has cheese and meat baked in! 

Year of Bread: The Best Bagels I’ve Ever Had

bagel-dough-ballsI have made this recipe before, back when I discovered a version on my favorite blog for foodgawking, Smitten Kitchen. They were and still are the best bagels I’ve ever had. They’re chewy on the outside, fluffy and soft on the inside, and have an amazing flavor that pairs wonderfully with anything you smear (or schmear) on them.

Slow, Slow Rise

bagel-dough-risen Unsurprisingly, Reinhart recommends a slow fermentation for bagels. I think this is actually a benefit rather than an impediment, because it makes it easy (relatively speaking) to have fresh, hot bagels for breakfast without having to wake up crazy early to make them. I made the dough and shaped the bagels the night before baking, which runs about the same way as making a loaf of French bread, except with the added step of separating and shaping the bagels at the end. The shaped, slightly-proofed bagels just chill  in the fridge overnight and come out right before they’re ready for boiling and baking.

Bagels Fresh Out of the…Pot?

bagel-dough-roundsThe idea of intentionally putting dough in water is kind of weird to me. Boiling water seems so violent, and bread dough can be such a delicate substance. In the end, I find it easier to think of bagels as weird giant noodles during the boiling stage. In fact, the method used here actually has a lot in common with another favorite carb of mine: ramen. As with ramen noodles, a good bagel should be nice and chewy. Adding something to make the water more alkaline helps the dough take on a chewier consistency.  I added a tablespoon of baking soda to a big pot of water after it came to a boil. Science! The dough rings are boiled a few at a time, for a minute or two on each side, then pulled out and put back onto the baking sheet to get ready for the oven.

Topping It Off

bagels-coolingThis time I went with pretty simple toppings and didn’t do any dough mix-ins, because I was too lazy to do more prep than that. Marla Bakery here in SF has amazing salted bagels, so I followed suit and sprinkled a few of mine with sea salt. The sea salt stuck fine, but the bagels I topped with sesame seeds as well ended up  mostly naked as soon as I started handling them at all. There’s gotta be a way to give the seeds more sticking power– maybe a light egg white wash or something to “glue” them down a bit? I ended up just scooping the fallen seeds off the cutting board and sprinkling the on cream cheese when I ate one, but  the sesame seed ones were my favorite. They had a nuttiness and texture that really leveled up the flavor of the bagel overall.

Text[ural] Analysis

bagel-crossFresh out of the oven these bagels were absolutely delicious, with a nice chewy exterior and a soft, fluffy center. But I did feel that they baked up a little less impressively than they did the last time I baked them. Some of them were very bubbly/porous inside. A lot of them seemed to flatten out a bit more than usual. I think this might have been a result of letting them sit out on the counter too long this morning before I boiled them (waiting for the oven to heat up and the water to boil). This also made them very soft and flexible, which is not the greatest when you’re trying to peel them off the waxed (and oiled) paper that they spent the night on. Next time I will most definitely use well-sprayed parchment paper AND leave the bagels in the fridge until a minute or two before they go into the pot. Long story short: a quick warm up is good, but getting back to room temperature seems bad.

Breakfast is Served

bagel-lox-closeBack in college my roommate and I used to have bagel breakfast days, usually soon after a Costco run that resulted in a fresh haul of groceries. We loaded them up with cream cheese, tomatoes and lox. It was our decadent weekend breakfast of choice. I topped this weekend’s bagels with a similar spread of cream cheese, lox and a sprinkling of capers– maybe not creative or original, but pretty damn tasty all the same.

Year of Bread: Tsoureki (Greek Celebration Bread)

greek-bread-spicesLast year I read a book on the history of the spice trade, and it threw a lot of ideas about “traditional” flavors out the window. Even modern standards like black pepper and cinnamon were once exotic, extravagantly priced and often hard to come by in the average person’s kitchen. That’s why I think it’s so interesting that today you can not only buy everything from saffron to paprika to allspice on the same shelf in grocery stores, but that some places even give the stuff away for free. Single-serving pepper packets are a fast food staple, and coffee chains often put out shakers of cinnamon and nutmeg for customers to use at-will. Spice culture has come a long way in the last few centuries! This week’s bread is a kind of tsoureki, labelled in Reinhart’s book as “Greek Celebration Bread.” You can tell that this loaf is meant for special occasions, because it’s chock-full of spices and takes a bit of extra effort to come together.

Poolishes, Bigas and Barms, Oh My!

(Sorry for the lame heading, everyone.) Technically speaking, this bread was a piece of cake (ha). I started with a poolish the night before, then added the rest of the ingredients and did the standard kneading and two rises. While I was aware of what pre-fermentation was before I started this baking project, I had no idea how many different kinds existed. Next time I do a bread post maybe I’ll do a run-down of the different types of types of pre-ferments, but for now know that a poolish just has a slightly higher water percentage than other common starters.

greek-bread-doughThis tsoureki is enriched with eggs, milk, oil and honey, and is generously flavored with orange rind, allspice, nutmeg, cinnamon, cloves and almond extract. It smells awesome, from the first step to the last. Other versions of this bread include more substantial additives like raisins, walnuts, dried fruit and even hard-boiled eggs, which would be interesting to try out.  You can see in unbaked bread just how much spice went into this dough– it’s visibly flecked with goodness.

Shaping the Loaf

There are a few different shapes that these loaves come in, depending on the occasion. Although it’s usually reserved for Christmas and has different set of flavoring ingredients, I picked the cross-shaped Christopsomo because it looked cool without being too labor-intensive to create. The prebaked one looked pretty wonky, so I was worried that I’d chosen poorly. Luckily, once it came out of the oven it looked much more symmetrical.

Glazing Up

greek-bread-glazeAfter I baked the bread, I immediately gave it a wash of honey, sugar, water and orange extract (I didn’t have a bottle on-hand, so I simmered some minced orange peel with the honey mixture to give it an orangey scent and hue), as well as a sprinkling of toasted sesame seeds. The glaze does make the crust stickier than I usually like my breads to be, but the sweetness really balances out the dense, flavorful loaf well. In the future I might up the water to honey and sugar ratio to make it a little less sticky.

 Closing Thoughts

greek-bread-sideThis bread was really fun to make! Sometimes the ingredients in a loaf of bread can feel pretty boring, since it’s often a conduit for other foods with stronger flavors. One thing that my pictures don’t really convey is how MASSIVE this bread baked up to be– it’s impressively large and I can see how it would make a great centerpiece for a holiday meal. I’d love to try miniature versions of this style to eat as a breakfast bun or a sandwich.

Year of Bread: New England Anadama

anadama-breadI’ve been watching The Mind of a Chef a lot lately, and am totally entranced by the baking genius of Christina Tosi (of Momofuku Milk Bar). Watching her make corn cookies is almost enough to make me want to enroll in culinary school. Corn isn’t really an ingredient I think of when I think of cookies, but considering the sweetness of fresh corn and its long-standing association with a healthy pat of butter on the cob, it makes a lot of sense. I guess that’s the essence of innovation in food, when it comes down to it — creating something so new, so unexpected that people are surprised — but when you think about it, you wonder why it didn’t exist all along.

anadama-1Corn was also the bassline of my bread this week, the first alphabetically in The Bread Baker’s Apprentice. When I was a kid we used to go to the farmers’ market to buy loaves of “squaw bread,” which was dark and sweet and grainy and delicious by itself and for a sandwich. Anadama reminds me a lot of that bread — it’s lightly sweet, with a texture that just screams “please spread something on me!” …In the most PG way possible. The sweetness of the bread comes from an overnight cornmeal “soaker” and a few tablespoons of molasses, a fun ingredient that looks super cool as it rolls down the mini mountains of flour in a bowl.
anadama-2I’ve made a lot of grainy breads in the past, and one problem I almost always run into is a soft, lifeless crust, or lack thereof. This is probably related to my subpar kneading time (windowpane test strikes again!), so this time I tried to knead the dough to a much stretchier consistency than I usually do. Maybe it has to do with the relative heat wave we were experiencing this week, or the sugar in the corn that had been soaking for 12+ hours by the time I added the yeast, but this dough rose super well. It was a three stage building process to make the dough (soaker >> sponge >> finished dough), so maybe that also helped.

Anadama is usually a pan bread, which is a little easier to handle because you just plop it in the pan and let it rise until you stick it in the oven. It also gives a nice, sandwich-ready shape to the loaf, so the end result pretty versatile. I ate it mostly with peanut butter and honey. Even after a good soaking, the cornmeal gave this bread a nice texture without being gritty– I’d definitely add this bread to my weekly baking lineup.

This Week’s Lesson

Learn to think of old ingredients in new ways — and post weekly blogposts in a more timely manner.